There is a moment in the kitchen, early in the morning, when the corn is soaking. We cook the dried kernels with a little cal, what some call lime, and let them rest overnight. This old process softens the corn and pulls out a deeper flavor and aroma. It is the same step our grandmothers used, and it is the reason a fresh tortilla smells the way it does.
The next morning the corn becomes masa, and the masa becomes tortillas pressed by hand. You can feel the difference before you taste it. A handmade tortilla has a little weight to it, a softness that folds without cracking, and a corn flavor that a bag of flour cannot copy.
If you ever make masa at home, our advice is simple. Do not rush the rest, keep the dough a little wetter than you think it should be, and cook on a hot, dry surface so the tortilla puffs. That puff means the layers separated and the inside steamed. It is a small kitchen victory, and it tastes like one too.